Diving Conflict Islands, Milne Bay, Papua New Guinea

Imagine being invited to an isolated tropical island atoll in the middle of the The Coral Triangle with crystal clear electric blue water and abundant fish and marine life. The promise of amazing species diversity, remote coral reefs over 100 miles away from civilisation with freedom to explore and dive sites nobody else has ever seen before. Imagine drinking sweet young coconuts whilst helping to monitor and protect turtles and working on educational projects for the local communities. This was our reality for 4 months over the summer Mating Green Turtlesas Migration Media were invited to stay at the stunning Panasesa Island Resort deep within Papua New Guinea’s Milne Bay Province aiming to promote conservation and diving around the 21 uninhabited islands that make up the Conflict Island Group. Boasting some of the highest coral biodiversity in the world, prolific fish life and key nesting grounds for green and hawksbill turtles, this is an underwater photographers dream come true.

Panasesa Island ResortPanasesa Island Resort offers SCUBA Diving to all levels of diver experience from beginners to well traveled thrill seekers and underwater photographers. SCUBA and Free Diving is certainly one of the highlights of The Conflict Islands which boasts some of the most pristine, untouched coral reefs in the world along with big animal encounters and pelagic fish life. Situated in the Milne Bay Province of Papua New Guinea, this volcanic coral atoll formation is surrounded by incredibly deep, clear blue water with strong ocean currents that collide against the walls and reefs providing nutrient rich up-wellings to the surface where millions of tropical fish and corals feed. In the most recent scientific study of the area, 430 species of coral, 950 species of molluscs and over 1,100 species of fish, were recorded, some found nowhere else in the world.

Hard Coral GardenEach island is entirely different in appearance and functionality with each their own role to play within the island atoll. The largest island, Irai, sits on the eastern extreme of the atoll and fast became our favourite dive site due to its close proximity to our base on Panasesa Island and its strong ocean currents and upwellings. Boasting the largest number of different coral species ever to be recorded on one dive, East Irai was appropriately named The Aquarium. West Irai IslandHundreds and thousands of reef and schooling pelagic fish, spectacular corals and the ability to see the unexpected made it highly addictive. Hordes of enormous dogtooth tuna over 50 kgs would cruise the deep walls whilst trevally, barracuda and reef sharks effortless swim into the fast moving currents which flood this epic dive site with nutrients. East Irai is also a hot spot for nesting green and hawksbill turtles during the months of October through til February which allows divers and snorkelers to giant adults resting in the shallows just off the beach.

Deep ReefMoving east past the furthest point of the atoll lies an enormous deep reef stretching miles and miles across the electric blue waters of Milne Bay. Between here and Irai sits a deep narrow trough where ocean circulations are pushed through attraction a multitude of marine life from Pilot Whales and dolphins to large rays and sharks. Large Tawny Nurse SharkDive early morning and find sharks still awake from the night before, dive during the day to catch the perfect sunlight catching these rich and colourful coral reefs. This truely is an ocean lovers dream. During one morning dive here I was having to push away 3m tawny nurse sharks before they nudged my body trying examine what was probably the first human they have ever come across.

Ginara ChannelAs well as diving on the island corners, throughout our time at the islands we found ourselves drawn to the passages between islands and reef systems. One of favourites was a narrow passage between Ginara and Panaboal Island. Deep clear blue water would be drawn through this passage on a flooding tide producing sometimes 40-50m visibility giving epic views of huge 3m+ sea fans hugging the reef slope looking Batfish and Sea Fansto catch as much of the nutrient rich water passing them by. One dive we were inspected by a large sailfish using the passage to find the huge shoals of bait fish which would congregate at the reef passages to also feed on the food suspended and gathered by the currents. Stingrays, giant Queensland Groupers, reef sharks and eagle rays were all regular sightings here as well as your regular schooling fusiliers, anthias and surgeon fish. Another regular dive site close-by to Panasesa Island is ships passage which is the largest passage on the atoll with a 40m deep entrance. Similar to Ginara passage, incoming tides would produce magnificent visibility and abundant fish and marine life. We frequently saw silvertip sharks, dogtooth tuna, eagle rays and the majestic manta rays were seen feeding on the inside of the passage.

Mushroom Coral PipefishIt was very difficult to pull ourselves away from diving at these spectacular sites but once we had a grip of the currents, during unfavorable days where the current was too strong, we went looking for macro life which is very difficult to spot when your being surrounded by so much fish life! Having done the majority of our macro diving in Borneo, Indonesia, Philippines and Mozambique, we generally went looking for your common critters such as nudibranches, pipefish, Solar Nudibranchseahorses, shrimps and crabs. Although it did take a while for our eyes to adapt, we eventually found that on the inside reef slopes and lagoons there was a large number critters that we had never expected to see on such an isolated atoll. Looking far and wide we found porceline crabs, anemone shrimps, nudibranches and some beautiful crinoid shrimps but what we found is that by just walking into the water from Panasesa Resort and swimming 100m to the reef will produce some incredible macro life. Solar nudibranches, mushroom coral pipefish and pygmy seahorse are literally straight in front of the resort allowing long shallow dives to find and photography these wonderful critters.

Sunset Over Itamarina IslandCurrently the Conflict Islands are accessible by charter flight from Port Moresby so people wishing to visit Panasesa Resort and the Conflict Islands must fly to Port Moresby and charter a plane for up to 8 passengers for a 2 hr flight to the islands. The entire resort can be used for a group of up to 12 guests with 6 beautiful ocean facing bungalows just a few steps from a private and secluded beach and a sunrise view over the central island of Itamarina. The Conflict Islands and Panasesa Resort are privately owned by Ian Gowrie-Smith, a conservation minded entrepreneur and SCUBA diver enthusiast who is looking for like minded investors who can share costs in  creating a marine sanctuary and protect this spectacular environment. This pristine ecosystem contains the most colourful and pristine coral reefs I have ever some across. For more information on visiting the conflict island please contact us.

Conflict Islands Video

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